W cieniu Elbrusa – dolina rzeki Baksan

Dolina rzeki Baksan jest jedną z najpiękniejszych na całym Kaukazie. Droga poprowadzona tą doliną stanowi jedyne połączenie z Przyelbrusiem, znanym ośrodkiem narciarskim, turystycznym i alpinistycznym położonym na stokach Elbrusa.

Aby tam się dostać musimy pokonać niemal całą dolinę rzeki Baksan – czyli blisko 140 kilometrów. W tym czasie z poziomu 500 m n.p.m. wznosimy się na wysokość 2.340 m. n.p.m.

Elbrus

Naszym oczom ukazał się Grzbiet Wielkiego Kaukaz oraz górujący nad nim stożek Elbrusa. Elbrus, niczym wielka huba przyrósł do zdrowego grzbietu Kaukazu i przytłacza go swymi rozmiarami.

Wierzchołki Elbrusa

Elbrus jest najwyższym szczytem Kaukazu Wielkiego i europejskiej części Rosji. Wyższy wierzchołek osiąga wysokość 5.642 m n.p.m. a niższy - 5.611 m n.p.m. Swój kształt zawdzięcza on wulkanicznemu pochodzeniu. Jeśli przyjmie się, że umowna granica między Europą i Azją przebiega wzdłuż Główny Grzbiet Kaukazu, to Elbrus leżałby w granicach geograficznej Europy. Tym samych byłby on najwyższą górą Starego Kontynentu, gdyż o blisko 850 metrów przewyższa najwyższy szczyt Alp - Mont Blanc (4.807 m n.p.m.).

Wielki Kaukaz

Dopiero zbliżając się do gór Wielkiego Kaukazu uświadamiamy sobie jego rozmiary - osiem szczytów Kaukazu Wielkiego przekracza 5.000 wysokości a jeszcze kilka kolejnych jest wyższych od Mont Blanc! Powierzchnia Wielkiego Kaukazu to ponad 440 tys. km2.

Dolina Baksan

Na wysokości miasta Baksan skręcamy na południe i teraz wzdłuż rzeki pniemy się w górę - ku Elbrusowi.

Republika Kabardo-Bałkarska

Jesteśmy na terenie Republiki Kabardo-Bałkarskiej. Kabardo-Bałkaria od południa graniczy z Gruzją, od zachodu z Karaczajo-Czerkiesją, od północy z Krajem Stawropolskim, od wschodu z Osetią Północną. Dzisiejsza Kabardo-Bałkaria zajmuje powierzchnię 12 tys. km2.

Kabardo-Bałkaria

Mieszka tu ok. 860 tys. mieszkańców - w tym Kabardyjczycy stanowią 43%, Rosjanie 33% a Bałkarzy 8% ludności republiki. Wsród przedstawicieli innych nacji znajdziemy tu Ukraińców, Osetyńców i Gruzinów. Szacuje się, że na terenie Kabardo-Balkarii zamieszkiwali przedstawiciele blisko 40 nacji. Oni sami lub ich przodkowie przybywali tu w ubiegłym wieku bądź to dobrowolnie w poszukiwaniu pracy, bądź to pod przymusem NKWD, do pracy w kopalni i przy budowie miasta Tyrnyauz.

Kabardo-Bałkaria

Kabardyjczycy to lud kaukaski - zamieszkiwali oni równiny na północnym stoku Kaukazu natomiast Bałkarzy to lud górski pochodzenia tureckiego, zamieszkujący najwyższe pasma Kaukazu.

Ku Elbrusowi

Krajobraz stopniowo z równinnego przechodzi w pogórze. Powoli pniemy się w górę doliny - z każdym kolejnym postojem odczuwamy spadek temperatury. 

W dolinie

Po drodze widzimy pola i ogrody na specjalnych tarasach. Niedobór ziemi zawsze stanowił podstawowy problem mieszkańców tych dolin. Dlatego też w przeszłości zasiedlali oni doliny rzek tworząc niewielkie osady.

Tyrnyauz

Po drodze mijamy najdalej na południe wysunięte miasto doliny - Tyrnyauz. Niewielkie sioło leżące w środkowej części doliny Baksan w połowie XX wieku rozrosło się do miasta liczącego sobie 30 tys. mieszkańców. A to za sprawą odkrytych w okolicy złóż wolframu i molibdenu. Miasto stanowiło zaplecze dla jednej z największych w świecie kopalni tych surowców. Obecnie, ze względu na trudne (i kosztowne) warunki wydobycia złóż zaprzestano pracy w kopalniach. Miasto umiera...

Cywilizacja...

To co szczególnie rzuca się w oczy to kontrast między potęgą natury i reliktami minionej epoki - potężne słupy, przewody elektryczne, ciągnące się kilometrami rury, hale fabryczne...  Wszystko to niepokojąco harmonizuje z majestatem skał, tworząc niesamowity klimat - jak po jakiejś katastrofie.

W dolinie

Zbocza doliny stają się bardziej strome. Bogactwo doznań i skojarzeń oszałamia. Z jednej strony - westernowe widoki gór z drugiej - cywilizacja Orientu.

Przyelbrusie

Kiedy wjeżdżamy w las, zanurzamy się w zimę. Różnica wysokości robi swoje. Powietrze staje się bardziej rześkie. Zaczynamy wierzyć, że jednak uda się pojeździć na nartach.

Bunio na Kaukazie 😉

Po około 4 godzinach drogi, przerywanej częstymi postojami, zajeżdżamy do osady Tierskoł w Przyelbrusiu. Hotel, w którym mieliśmy spędzić najbliższe dni okazuje się miłą niespodzianką - przyzwoity standard, smaczna kuchnia i niezłe zaplecze (sauna, basen). Jeszcze tylko hotelowi goście i personel muszą się oswoić z naszym buldożkiem - Buniem. Rozumiemy, że wczasowicze rzadko zapuszczają się tu z ulubionymi czworonogami.

Lodowiec na Elbrusie

Z pobliskich lodowców bierze swój początek rzeka Baksan, od której nazwę wzięła dolina oraz miasto.


Baksan

Rzeka Baksan w górnym biegu.

Tu więcej o nartach na Elbrusie – http://be2run.com/narty-na-kaukazie-w-4-odslonac/

PLAN

Get Directions

  show options

68 myśli na temat “W cieniu Elbrusa – dolina rzeki Baksan

  1. After going over a few of the articles on your blog,
    I seriously like your technique of writing a blog.
    I book-marked it to my bookmark website list and will be checking back soon. Take a look
    at my web site as well and tell me your opinion.

  2. I am extremely impressed with your writing skills as well as with the layout on your weblog.
    Is this a paid theme or did you modify it yourself?
    Either way keep up the excellent quality writing, it’s rare to see a great blog like
    this one today.

  3. I was wondering if you ever considered changing the layout of your blog?
    Its very well written; I love what youve got to say.

    But maybe you could a little more in the way of content so people could connect with it better.
    Youve got an awful lot of text for only having 1 or 2 pictures.
    Maybe you could space it out better?

  4. Quest bars cheap fitnesstipsnew1 quest bars
    cheap 516999410492780544 quest bars cheap
    Hi there, I enjoy reading through your post.

    I wanted to write a little comment to support you. Quest bars cheap
    fitnesstipsnew1 quest bars cheap 516999410492780544 quest bars cheap

  5. Your style is unique in comparison to other people I’ve read stuff from.
    Thanks for posting when you have the opportunity, Guess I
    will just bookmark this blog.

  6. Excellent post. I used to be checking continuously this blog and I am impressed!
    Extremely useful information particularly the remaining part :
    ) I deal with such info a lot. I used to be seeking
    this certain info for a very lengthy time. Thank you and best of luck.

  7. Oh my goodness! Awesome article dude! Thank you so
    much, However I am experiencing issues with your RSS. I don’t know why I am unable
    to join it. Is there anybody having the same RSS problems? Anyone who knows the solution will you kindly respond?
    Thanx!!

  8. My programmer is trying to convince me to move to .net from PHP.

    I have always disliked the idea because of the costs.

    But he’s tryiong none the less. I’ve been using WordPress on a number of
    websites for about a year and am worried about switching to another platform.
    I have heard fantastic things about blogengine.net.
    Is there a way I can import all my wordpress posts into it?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!

  9. My family members all the time say that I am wasting my time here at net, but I know I am getting know-how daily by reading thes good articles.

  10. It’s a shame you don’t have a donate button! I’d definitely donate to this excellent blog!
    I guess for now i’ll settle for book-marking and adding your RSS feed to my
    Google account. I look forward to fresh updates and will talk about this blog with my Facebook group.
    Talk soon!

  11. Have you ever considered about including a little bit more than just your articles?
    I mean, what you say is valuable and everything.
    Nevertheless imagine if you added some great pictures or videos to give your posts more, „pop”!
    Your content is excellent but with pics and video clips,
    this blog could certainly be one of the most beneficial in its field.
    Very good blog!

  12. Hey there just wanted to give you a quick heads up.
    The text in your article seem to be running off the screen in Firefox.

    I’m not sure if this is a formatting issue or something
    to do with browser compatibility but I figured I’d post to let you know.
    The layout look great though! Hope you get the issue solved soon.
    Cheers

  13. Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my
    blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates.
    I’ve been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and
    was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this.
    Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and
    I look forward to your new updates.

  14. Hello, i read your blog from time to time and i own a similar
    one and i was just wondering if you get a lot of spam
    comments? If so how do you stop it, any plugin or anything you can suggest?
    I get so much lately it’s driving me crazy so any assistance is very much appreciated.

  15. Hey! I just wanted to ask if you ever have any
    problems with hackers? My last blog (wordpress) was
    hacked and I ended up losing many months of
    hard work due to no data backup. Do you have
    any methods to protect against hackers?

  16. Today, I went to the beach front with my children. I found a sea shell
    and gave it to my 4 year old daughter and said
    „You can hear the ocean if you put this to your ear.” She
    placed the shell to her ear and screamed. There was a hermit crab inside and
    it pinched her ear. She never wants to go back!
    LoL I know this is totally off topic but I had to tell someone!

  17. Very rapidly this site will be famous amid all blogging visitors, due to
    it’s fastidious content

  18. Hi my loved one! I want to say that this post
    is awesome, great written and come with approximately all significant infos.
    I’d like to peer extra posts like this .

  19. Hello there, You have done an incredible job. I will certainly digg it and personally recommend to my
    friends. I am sure they’ll be benefited from this web site.

  20. Does your blog have a contact page? I’m having problems locating it
    but, I’d like to send you an email. I’ve got some
    suggestions for your blog you might be interested in hearing.

    Either way, great website and I look forward to seeing it improve
    over time.

  21. I will right away grasp your rss as I can’t find your e-mail subscription link or newsletter service.
    Do you have any? Please allow me recognize so that I could subscribe.
    Thanks.

  22. Excellent beat ! I would like to apprentice at the same time as
    you amend your site, how can i subscribe for
    a weblog site? The account helped me a appropriate deal.
    I were a little bit acquainted of this your broadcast offered brilliant clear concept

  23. I used to be suggested this web site via my cousin. I am no longer sure whether or
    not this publish is written through him as nobody else realize such targeted approximately my
    problem. You are amazing! Thank you!

  24. I’m not sure exactly why but this blog is loading very slow for me.
    Is anyone else having this issue or is it a issue on my end?

    I’ll check back later and see if the problem still exists.

  25. Have you ever considered about adding a little bit more
    than just your articles? I mean, what you say is important and
    all. However imagine if you added some great graphics or
    video clips to give your posts more, „pop”!
    Your content is excellent but with images and video clips, this blog could undeniably be one of the best in its
    niche. Good blog! pof natalielise

  26. Hello to every body, it’s my first visit of this blog;
    this web site consists of awesome and actually excellent data in favor of visitors.

  27. I know this website presents quality depending articles or reviews and other data, is
    there any other website which offers these kinds of stuff in quality?

  28. Hi, I do believe this is a great web site. I stumbledupon it 😉 I may revisit once
    again since I book marked it. Money and freedom is the best way to change, may you be rich and continue to help
    other people.

  29. Heya fantastic blog! Does running a blog such as this take
    a large amount of work? I’ve absolutely no understanding of programming however I
    was hoping to start my own blog soon. Anyhow, if you have any suggestions
    or techniques for new blog owners please share. I understand this is off
    subject but I just wanted to ask. Thank you!

  30. I truly love your blog.. Pleasant colors & theme. Did you
    build this amazing site yourself? Please reply back as I’m wanting to create my own personal
    website and would like to learn where you got this from or just what the theme is
    called. Thanks!

  31. I like the helpful info you provide in your articles.
    I will bookmark your weblog and check again here frequently.
    I am quite sure I will learn plenty of new stuff right here!
    Best of luck for the next!

  32. I was very pleased to find this great site. I wanted to thank you
    for your time for this fantastic read!! I definitely loved every little bit of it and I have you
    saved to fav to see new information on your website.

  33. Great weblog right here! Additionally your
    web site so much up very fast! What host are you
    using? Can I am getting your affiliate hyperlink on your host?

    I wish my website loaded up as fast as yours lol

  34. fantastic points altogether, you just won a new
    reader. What may you recommend about your publish that you just made a
    few days ago? Any positive?

  35. Howdy just wanted to give you a quick heads up. The words in your post seem to be running off the screen in Chrome.
    I’m not sure if this is a format issue or something to do with browser compatibility
    but I figured I’d post to let you know. The layout look great though!
    Hope you get the problem fixed soon. Thanks

  36. This is a topic that’s near to my heart…
    Thank you! Where are your contact details though?

  37. Remarkable things here. I am very glad to see your post.
    Thank you a lot and I’m taking a look ahead to contact you.

    Will you please drop me a mail?

  38. Hi are using WordPress for your site platform?
    I’m new to the blog world but I’m trying to get started
    and create my own. Do you need any coding knowledge to make your own blog?
    Any help would be really appreciated!

  39. It’s nearly impossible to find educated people in this particular topic, but you sound like you know what you’re talking about!

    Thanks

  40. Hello, i think that i saw you visited my website so i came
    to ?return the favor?.I am attempting to find things to improve my site!I suppose
    its ok to use some of your ideas!!

  41. I love your blog.. very nice colors & theme. Did you make this website yourself
    or did you hire someone to do it for you? Plz respond as
    I’m looking to design my own blog and would like to find
    out where u got this from. thanks a lot

  42. If you are going for finest contents like me, simply pay a quick visit
    this web site every day for the reason that it provides
    quality contents, thanks

  43. It’s a shame you don’t have a donate button! I’d most certainly donate to this fantastic blog!
    I guess for now i’ll settle for book-marking and adding your RSS feed to my Google
    account. I look forward to new updates and will talk about this site with my Facebook group.
    Talk soon!

  44. Wow, awesome weblog format! How lengthy have you been blogging for?
    you make blogging look easy. The entire look of your site is wonderful, as
    well as the content material!

  45. This design is incredible! You most certainly know
    how to keep a reader entertained. Between your wit and
    your videos, I was almost moved to start my own blog (well, almost…HaHa!) Excellent
    job. I really enjoyed what you had to say, and more than that, how you
    presented it. Too cool!

  46. Pretty portion of content. I just stumbled upon your site and in accession capital
    to say that I get in fact loved account your weblog posts.
    Anyway I’ll be subscribing on your feeds and even I fulfillment you get
    entry to constantly fast.

  47. At this time I am going to do my breakfast, once having my breakfast coming yet again to read additional news.

  48. I?m not that much of a internet reader to be honest but your sites really nice,
    keep it up! I’ll go ahead and bookmark your website to come back later.

    All the best

  49. Ahaa, its nice dialogue concerning this paragraph at this place at this website, I
    have read all that, so now me also commenting here.

Dodaj komentarz

nine + ten =